[Phonecode: 03776, Altitude. 65m]

Kaziranga Reserve Forest was declared a game sanctuary in 1916 to save the Indian greater one-horned rhino and became a national park in 1 974. In a beautiful setting on the banks of the Brahmaputra, and with the Karbi Anglong Hills to the south, the 430 sq km park combines elephant grass mixed with thorny rattan cane, areas of semi-ever-green forest and shallow swamps. Ins & outs Guwahati is 21 5 km from Kohora, the entry point to Kaziranga, a World Heritage Site, on the NH37. See page 666 for further details. Climate; Summer max 35C, mm 18C; Winter max 24C, mm 7C. Annual rainfall 2,300 mm, heavy in summer. Best season; Mid-Nov to end-Apr (Dec, Jan best for birds); closed mid Apr-mid Oct during monsoons. Clothing: cottons; a warm jacket for sudden cool weather (early elephant ride and jeep after dusk, even in summer).

Wildlife

The rhino population is about 1,200 here (1,500 in the country) but you can still easily see them in the marshes and grasslands. Poachers still kill the animal for its horn for its use in Chinese and Tibetan medicine - a single horn (1 kg) can fetch a very high price. The catastrophic floods in September 1998 led to drowning ofat least 35 rhinos but the park has limped back to normalcy. Money raised through donations is being used to rebuild jeep tracks and viewing towers. The park also has over 1,000 wild buffalo, sambar, swamp deer (over 500), hog deer, wild pig, hoolock gibbon, elephants (about 1,000) pythons and tiger (80 in 1997), the only predator of the doc¬ile rhino. There is a rich variety of shallow-water fowl including egrets, pond herons, river terns, black-necked stork, fishing eagles and adjutant storks, pelicans and the rare Bengal florican. There are otters and dolphins in the river.

Viewing

[Keep receipts as fees are valid for several trips during 1 day]

Entry into the park is by own vehicle, hired jeep or trained elephants. Although elephants cover less ground than motor vehicles, they can get a lot closer to the wildlife, particularly rhinos and buffalo. However, the elephant rides get mixed reports (less enjoyable when demand is heavy and “other tourists get over-excited”!).They carry four and a seat may be booked through the Forest Range Officer, the night before the visit. Elephant rides, 0530-0630 or 0630-0730, Rs 525 foreigners (Indians Rs 120), plus jeep transfer between town and elephant pick-up, Rs 120. The viewing posts just inside the park may offer quieter viewing.

The Department of Tourism, Kaziranga and private agents hire outjeeps for five to six people.

Government: Rs 400 for three hours; private: Rs 550 for 50 km or 2½ hours; Wild Grass Resorts charge Rs 10 per km, for example Eastern Range, Rs 700. A car or jeep must be accompanied by a Forest Department guide (free), who can give directions as well as spot wildlife. Cars and jeeps pay a road toll, Rs 150. There are three road routes for visiting the park. The Kaziranga Range - Kohora, Daflang, Fohomari (‘full of big mammals”); the Western Range - Baguri (12 km west of Kohora), Monabeel, Bimoli, Kanchanjuri (‘tall elephant grass so vis¬ibility not great”); and the Eastern Range - Agortoli, Sohola, Rangamatia, where you may see a lot of wildlife but at a distance (“very few other visitors”).

Park roads open 0800-1100, 1400-1630. Foreigners, Rs 175. Cameras (foreach trip during any day): still, Rs 175, telephoto lens, Rs 210, video, Rs 525 (professional, Rs 7,000). 25% discount on fees after 3 consecutive days.

EssentiaIs

Sleeping & eating C Wild Grass Resorts, lovely location, 1.5 km from NH37, 5.5 km from Kohora (ask for Kaziranga lB Bus Stop, 400 m north of resort), T62011, (Guwahati T0361-546827, F630465). 19 rooms, wood floors, cane furniture, deluxe camping (4 new tents, common bath, Rs 250), can get very cold in winter, very good buffet lunch (Rs 50/65), huge pool, excellent service, spotless, relaxing, beautiful walks through forests and tea plantations, tours, pick up from Guwahati for groups, occasional cultural shows. Highly recommended. Assam Tourism’s D Aranya Tourist Lodge, 1 km south of Kohora, T62409. 24 rooms with bath and balcony, some a/c, simple garden, restaurant and bar (slow service, order ahead), veryfriendly (Rs 450; off-season, Rs 350). Recommended. Nearby D-E Bonani, T62423. 5 a/c rooms (Rs 350), lim¬ited menu. F Bonashree, still cheaper, 9 rooms (Rs 1 75), a large verandah, pleasant garden, but often full. Kunjaban Dormitory, linen optional, 5 or 1 2-bed (Rs 1 5), no cupboards. Reser¬vations: Deputy Director, Tourism, Kaziranga, T62444. Also Dhansriand Green Reed, off the main road, between the two. Rhinorico Restouront is at the bus stop on the main road/.V

Tours

Assam Tourism offers a 2-day tour (see under Guwahati above). Tour operators, see below, may be more reliable.

Transport Air Nearest airport is at Jorhat (88 km). See page 663. Foreign tourists must use Guwahati’s Borjhar airport (see page 659). Road Best to ask WildGrass, ifthey have a vehicle going from Guwahati, or confirm timings ofprivate buses. ASTC buses between Guwahati and Jorhat via Kohora stopping at Nagaon (30 mins, where you can stop overnight); departs 0900, 1000, 1100, 1230, Rs 77, 5-6 hrs. Private: Green Volley (office behind bus station) coaches dep Guwahati forTinsukia and Digboi, 0700 (non a/c, Rs 85), 0730 (a/c, Rs 1 25); lunch stop at Wild Grass Resorts, after 4 hrs. To Guwahati: a/c bus from Dibrugarh stops at resort for lunch; leaves at 1 330. Kaziranga Forest Lodge has 1 0 seats reserved on the Express coach between Golaghat and Guwahati. Assam Tourism bus, dep 0930 from Bonashree Lodge, art Guwahati 1600, Rs 75 (lunch Rs 30). It is a very bumpy ride; best to get a seat near the front. From Shillong get a Jorhat bus and switch at Jorabat for Kaziranga. Train Furkating (75 km) has the nearest station with trains from Guwahati; buses via Golaghat.

Directory

Useful services Post office near the Tourist Lodge and at the park. Tour operators Wildgrass, wildgrss@sancharnet.in The Wildlife Society has a library of books and magazines and may show wildlife films to groups. Range Officer, T62428. Divisional Forest Officer, Bokakhat, T68007. Kazirongo Safari, 1037376-325468, F325782, can book accommodation.

Panbari

Panbari Forest Reserve, 12 km from Kaziranga, has hoolock gibbons and a good variety ofbirdlife. Contact the Forest Office, Guwahati, for permission to visit.