Population 578,000; Altitude 55m; Phone code 0361

Despite its commanding position on the south bank of the mighty Brahmaputra, it is  easy to forget that Guwahati is a riverside town, the waterside having little impact on peoples’ lives. The main entrance pointfor visitors to the Northeastern states, the city retains a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Paltan Bazar, where most visitors arrive, is very busy and crowded. North of the railway it is much quieter and has a rural feel.

Getting there Borjhar airport (23 km) has flights to Kolkata, Delhi, Bagdogra and aitpotts thtoughout the Northeast. It has occasional coaches, shared taxis and auto-rickshaws forr transfer to town. The railway station is in the central Paltan Bazar, while most State and private buses arrive immediately to its south. Getting around It is easy to walk around the two main commercial areas of Paltan and Pan (pronounced Paan) Bazars which have most of the hotels and restaurants. Always carry a torch when walking at night since large holes in pavements in places lead straight down into sewer channels. Red minibuses or ‘canters’ are cheap and very efficient around the city (conductors call out the stops), whereas auto-rickshaws need hard bargaining. Political incidents in the city are rare so military presence usually remains discreet and low-key.

Climate Temperature Summer, max 32 C, min 25 C; Winter, max 23 C, min 10 C. Rainfall May-Aug 310 mm, minimal Nov-Feb.

History Guwahati on the site ofthe ancient capital of a succession of local chieftains was once known as Pragjyotishpur (‘the city of astrology’). The Navagrah (nine planets) Temple on a hill here was the ancient centre of astronomy and astrology. It was also a centre of learning and a place of Hindu pilgrimage. In the seventh century, Hiuen Tsang described its beautiful mountains, forests and wildlife. Today it is the business capital while Dispur, the ‘Capital Area’, is just to the south.

The Janardhan Temple (10th century) in the heart of the city, was rebuilt in the Sights 17th century. The Buddha image here uniquely blends Hindu and Buddhist fea¬tures.

The Umananda (Siva) Temple, on Peacock Island in the Brahmaputra, can be reached by ferry. An Ahom king built the temple in 1594, believing Uma, Siva’s consort, had stayed there. Ask the priests about the few rare golden langurs here.

Kamakhya Temple (8 km southwest) Believed to be an old Khasi sacrificial site on Nilachal Hill, it has been a centre for Tantric Hinduism and Sakti worship. Rebuilt in 1665 after the 10th-century temple was destroyed by a Brahmin convert to Islam, it typifies Assamese temple architecture with its distinctive beehive-shape sikhara (spire), the nymph motifs and the long turtleback hail. The dark sanctum contains the creative part of the goddess which is said to have fallen here (see page 595) and pilgrims enter to touch the wet yoni of Kamakhya (Sakti). Western visitors may be allowed into the sanctum but should be prepared for the charged atmo-sphere and to walk barefoot on a floor sprinkled with the sacrificial blood of a goat. (0830-1300, 1500-1600 Sun 0830-1200). Ask for Hemen Sarma, a knowledgeable resident Brahmin, on entering the complex. Further up the hill is a smaller temple and a Viewpoint with panoramic views of the Brahmaputra.

Gettingthere Buses fiorn MG Road(towards Adabarj Bus Stand) can drop you near Kamakhya. Take a ‘canter’ frorn A T Road to the temple or walk up the steep and slippery rocky path at the back of the hill.

Basistha Ashram (12 km) Believed to be sage Basistha’s (Vasistha) hermitage, it is a scenic spot with three mountain streams nearby.

North Guwahati is a sleepy town across Saraighat Bridge, which can also be reached by any ferry from the ghat. The Digheswari Temple is worth a visit. Take a rickshawfrom the other bank or an auto-rickshaw or shared four-wheeler.

Bordua, 15 km north of Nagaon, with a museum, is where the Vaishnavite reformer Shri Sankardeva was born in 1449. He was a great scholar, poet and musi¬cian (see also Majuli Island, page 669).

Assam Forest Museum has collections of timber, cane and ivory work, tusks and Museums horns. 1000-1600 weekdays, 1000-1330 Saturday; guided tours. Assam State Museum, which is being improved, covers epigraphy, sculpture, natural history et cetera; sections on village life, crafts and ethnography are particularly interesting. A small museum, well lit, thoughtfully displayed with notes in English and informative on neighbouring cultures. Leaflet available. Photography with permission. 1000-1615 (Nov-Mar), 1000-1700 (Apr-Oct), closed Mon and 2nd, 4th Saturday. Rs 2.

Commercial Museum, Guwahati University, has collections of art and craft, commercial products, minerals and rocks, coins etc. 1230-1830, Mon-Sat, closed Sun and University holidays. No photography.

Srimata Sankaradeva Kalakshetra is a cultural complex set up to serve as a centre for Assamese dance, drama, music, fine arts and literature ('a theme park of Assamese life'). It features a museum, theatre, artists’ village and heritage park. 0800-2200, closed Mon; in Panjabari, on road to Narangi.

Zoo and Botanical Gardens Largely an open-enclosure zoo with landscaped gardens, it has swamp tapirs, rhinos, tigers, lions, panthers and rich birdlife; several species from Northeast India which are not often seen elsewhere. Restaurants and souvenir shops. Oct-Mar 0800-1600, Apr-Sep 0700-1630. Closed Fri. Rs 5. Cameras: still camera Rs 5, telephotolens Rs 25, video Rs 250. Autorickshaw from town Rs 40. Alternatively take a local bus along GNB Road to the flyover (Rs 2), climb steps up to the flyover; take a southbound bus to the zoo (Rs 2). A few direct buses go all the way.

Essentials You may need to complete 4 copies of the hotel registration slip and then register with the police (fairly quick). Most hotels outside Guwahati require photocopies of passport identification and the visa page.

Hotels B Brahmaputra Ashok (ITDC), MG Rd, 1541 064, F540870, brahmaputra@satyam.net.in 50 rooms (on riverside best), central a/c, TV, bamboo and cane furniture, good restaurant, credit cards, good travel agency. B Dynasty, 55 Rd,T51 0496, F5221 1 2. 68 comfortable rooms, good restaurants. B-C Nandan, GS Rd, opposite Indian Airlines, 1540855, F542634, nandan@gwl.vsnl.net.in 55 rooms, some a/c, expensive suites, restaurants, Upavan for snacks, bar. Recommended. B-CRajmahal, Paltan Bazar (near bus stand), 1522478, F521559. 80 rooms (cheaper, good value), excellent restaurant, all services, pooi in summer (non-residents Rs 75, 45 minutes), modern. C Bellevue, MG Rd, on river front opposite Raj Bhawan, 1540847. 45 rooms, restaurant (Continental recommended), elevated woodland setting, quiet. C Prag Continental, M Nehru Rd, Pan Bazar, 1543785, F524554, 62 rooms, some a/c, terrace restaurants, Continental Café. Most medium priced hotels have some a/c rooms and tend to serve Indian meals only: D Nova, SS Rd, 1523464. Clean rooms (some C a/c) in 4-storey block (extra bed Rs 1 00/1 50), reasonable restaurant (Indian, Chinese) but slow service (room service quicker), pleasant, friendly and helpful. D Chilarai Regency, HP Brahmachari Rd, Paltan Bazar,T541 530, F54791 7. 44 large rooms (some a/c), bar, exchange. D-EStarline, Md Shah Rd, Paltan Bazar, T542450. 74 clean rooms (Rs 300-500), 12 a/c with hot water 24 hrs (Rs 550), Indian/Chinese restaurant, polite and helpful staff. E-FAnanda,, Nehru Rd, T544832. Small dark rooms but pleasant, vegetarian dining hall. E-F Orchid, B Barua Rd, opposite stadium, 1544471. 23 clean rooms, 5 a/c, hot water in buckets, set back from road in own compound with excellent Magnolia restaurant. F Tourist Lodge (Assam Tourism), opposite rly station, T544475. 21 fairly clean simple rooms with nets, toilets and balcony, canteen, staff speak little English but are friendly, tourist information, good value. F Railway Retiring Rooms, rooms (some a/c), small dorm, book at Enquiry Counter. (Some budget hotels at Sadullah & M Nehru Rd crossing; those in Paltan Bazar.are often full by the afternoon)

Eating Assamese thalis including rice, fish and vegetable curry, often cooked with mustard. You might try vegetarian Kharo/i, Ow/ta Khar (papaya cooked with burnt ‘bark’ ofthe banana plant). Expensive: Only larger hotels serve Continental food and have bars. Specially recommended: Bellevue for Continental. Dynasty for Chinese. Rajmahal. Mid range: Ming Room, Rajgarh Rd, near Chandmari Flyover. Very good Chinese. Cheap: lantosh. Assamese. Takeaway and ice cream, clean. Apple Pie, MC Rd. Pastries, shakes and ice creams. MagicMushroom, MC Rd. International. Clean, good quality, varied menu (Rs 25-50), trendy blue psychedelic decor, very friendly and helpful owner. Recommended. Mognolio, Orchid Horel, B Barua Rd. “Food arrives hot and quickly.” Recommended. Paradise, CNB Rd, Chandmari, T546904. Assamese. Serves “perfect rho/is” (Rs 55), very clean and friendly, closes 1 530-1 800 (cycle rickshaw from station, Rs 1 0). Rec¬ommended. Station restaurantdoes good omelettes (Rs 7). Woodlands, AT Rd (older branch on OS Rd). Indian vegetarian. Clean, a/c, specializes in lunch and dinner rho/is (Rs 40). Hits Cafeteria, near Central School, Khanapara, T300090, out in the suburbs, offers great lunch and dinner.

Entertainment Guwahati Planetarium, Uzan Bazar, daily 1700 English show (good equipment), Rs 10. Rec-ommended. Sport Swimming: Assam Swimming Club, Ambari and Pool in Nehru Stadium. Paddle boats: on the Long Pond (Digholi Pukhuri nearthe Museum Bus Stop). Spend a pleasant hour with a cup ofcoffee from the canteen.

Festivals Magh Bihu in Jan and Rongali Bihu in mid-Apr, the week-long festivities are celebrated with singing and dancing. In Jun Ambubachi marks the end of Mother Earth’s menstrual cycle with a fair at Kamakhya Temple. In Sep the Manasa Festival honours the Snake goddess. You can watch devotees dancing and entering into trances from galleries on the hillside. Assam Tea Festival is celebrated on 26-28 Dec with events in various places.

Shopping Muga, pat and endy silks, hats, bamboo and cane baskets, flutes, drums and pipes are typical ofthe area. Guide prices: silk per metre: muga Rs 400+ (saris Rs 4,000+), per Rs 250 (saris Rs 2,000+), endi Rs 1 50-300. Per mekhela and shador, Rs 1 500, endy shawls Rs 300+.

You need to bargain in Pan Bazar and Fancy Bazar.

Assam Co-op Silk House, HB Rd, Pan Bazar, for pure silk items; Khadi Gramudyog, near Guwohari Emporium. Assam at Ambari, sells silks, bamboo, wood, brass and ceramics. Manipur, Paltan Bazar; Purbashree, GNB Rd, has traditional crafts; Tantuja, Ulubari, has Bengal handloom. Books in Pan Bazar: Lawyers Book Stall, one of the region’s oldest and larg¬est; Modern Book Depot, best collection on the region at rear.