[Phonecode:03775]

Majuli Island is possibly the largest river island in the world, though constantly changing an, reduced to around 700 sq km. The flooding of the Brahmaputra river means that that at times Majuli is reduced to a cluster of islands, some as small as a hut top. Roads keep shlftlng but villagers adapt to rerouting by building cost effective bamboo bridges. Cut offfrom the mainland to the south about 400 years ago, it nearest is served by ferries from Jorhat and North Lakhimpur, but it can still be accessed from the north by road during summer. Majuli is also a birdwatchers’ paradise. At the forefront ofAssamese Vaishnava culture, the island is an important centre for arts, crafts and science. Work is in progress to declare it a World Heritage Site. The satras (monasteries) here, inspired by the 15th-century saint Sankardeva and his disciple Madhavdeva are worth visiting. They are essentially small self-contained, self-sufficient villages where Vishnu is worshipped through regular performances ofdance-dramas at the temples.

Some satras can be visited on foot in and around Kamalabari and Garmur but for others a rickshaw (or taxi) is handy. Auniati, a few kilometres west of Kamalabari, has an Angami tribal museum with old manuscripts, utensils, jewellery and handicrafts. Bengenatti, east ofUttar Kamalabari, is a centre for performing arts and tribal dance forms. Others worth visiting are at Nauten Kamalabari and Dekhinpat.

Sleeping and eating CircuitHouse (Rs 100), contact SDO, Majuli, T74424, ahead but often booked. At Kamalabari: UttarKamalabariSatra, very basic, bring own bedding and leave a donation, usually booked through Wild Grass but you may try to reserve on T73392, ask to call Dulal Saikia (the head priest) to the phone, then ring back after 10 mins. At Nauten Kamalabari (8 km from Garmur), GuestHouse, spartan, no hot water (Rs 30). Food is available at simple eating houses. Carry drinking water.

Transport Buses from Jorhat (at junction of MG and AT Roads) to Neemati (1 3 km north); allow 1 hr. Governmentferryfrom Neemati, 1 000, 1 600, return 1 330 (confirm timings); cross-ing time varies seasonally as boats have to circumnavigate sand bars. Buses run from the ghat to Kamalabari (about 5 km) and Garmur (8.5 km). You can also arrange private boats at the jetty for transporting a car.