[Phonecode: 03772]

District headquarters of the largest tea and oil producing area in the Northeast, Sibsagar was the Ahom capital for two centuries, preceded by Gargaon and Rangpur. There are several royal tanks. Daupadi (the Ahom King’s wife) built the huge tank here in 1734. On the east bank there is birdwatching tower and a library. The tower of the Siva Dol on its bank is one of the tallest Siva temples in India. Sivaratri is celebrated in March. The Joysagar at Rangpur, 5 km away, and the three temples on its bank date from 1697. Talatal Ghar (6 kin), the seven-storeyed palace with three underground floors, was built between 1696-1714. Two underground tunnels are said to have connected the palace with the Dikhow river, at the 16th-century Ahom capital at Gargaon, 15 km away. The East India Company is held responsible for their disappearance! ~ Getting there: localbusfrom BG RoadBali Ghat, Rs 5, 20 minutes; then cycle-rickshaw, Rs 10. Charaideo, 28 km east became the first capital in 1253 ofthe Ahom kings, who ruled for 600 years, while their last capital was Jorhat before the British took over power. Vast hemispherical, royal burial mounds known as maidams have been found here. These are earth covered funeral chambers where the embalmed bodies of the kings were laid to rest with attendants who were sometimes buried alive - a custom dating from the 18th century.

Sleeping and eating E Siddhartha, BG Rd, 1223276, F20430. 29 rooms, restaurant, bar, modern. E-F Brahmaputra, BG Rd, 122000. 48 rooms, restaurant, helpful, clean. Recom¬mended. Assam Tourism F Tourist Lodge, near Siva Dol, T22394. 6 rooms (often full), very helpful Tourist Office.

Transport Nearest airport: Jorhat (60 km). Nearest railway station: Simaluguri (20 km). Reg¬ular buses to Guwahati, Kaziranga, Simaluguri.

Directory Trishuli Travels, Hospital Rd near State Bus Stand. GPO near Siva Dol.