[Phone code: 03712]
Once known as Sonitpur, the 'city of blood', Tezpur is on the north bank of the Brahmaputra 180 km northeast of Guwahati. A focus of ancient myths, the town has lost some of its colonial flavour. Tezpur is the site of Assam’s first tea plantations. Its ancient origins can be seen at Da Parbatia, west oftown, which has the entrance gate of an early Gupta style temple, while a large stone inscription commemorates the Ahom general Kalia Bhomorah near the river bridge. The pleasant Cole Park (Chitralekha Udyan), with a lake, remains a relaxing oasis amongst the modern day bustle. It is open 0800-1930, Rs 5.
An interesting excursion is to take a Guwahati-bound bus, get off at the bridge over the Brahmaputra, then negotiate with a boatman to take you to the river’s confluence with the Bhoreli for some river dolphin watching. Some hotels offer such trips (30 minute rickshaw ride, Rs 150, followed by boat hire, Rs 800).
Sleeping and eating
D Luit, 100m from bus stand, T22083, 38 clean rooms, some a/c (Rs 650 plus 30% tax), best in new wing, restaurant, bar, travel. Recommended. E Basanth, Main Rd, T30831. Good, clean, well-maintained rooms (Rs 250). E Durba, KK Rd, T22605. Clean rooms with TV, Appoyom restaurant. F Tourist Lodge (Assam Tourism), opposite Chitralekha Udyan, T2106. 6 large rooms with bath (Rs 170) and dorm (Rs 30), very quiet and peaceful, tourist information. Basic small guest houses include Central Lodge, T21117.
Transport
Air: Saloni airport is to the north: Indian Airlines, 120083, 120353. Flies to/from Kolkata via Imphal twice weekly, and also to Dimapur twice weekly.
Road: Frequent buses to/from Guwahati; Kaziranga, Rs 20. Daily to Itanagar (4 hrs); Tawang (12 hrs). Taxi: to Orang/Nameri, Rs 500 plus petrol.
Directory
Tourist office 121016. Forest Office, West Assam Wildlife Div, 120854, for angling at Bhoreli.
Around Tezpur
Nameri National Park The 210 sq km park on the Arunachal border with ever-greens, bamboo and some open grassland is on the river Jia Bhoreli, about 40 km north of Tezpur. The best time to visit is from October to April. It is home to about 20 endangered white-winged wood ducks among 300 bird species. There are tigers and elephants (29 and 225 counted in 1997), Indian bison, barking and hog deer. Viewing is on elephant back as there are no roads. You can trek within the park with a forest guide/guard. Entry/camera fees are similar to Kaziranga (see above). An Eco camp at Potasali organizes white-water rafting and mahseer fishing on the Bhoreli. The Assam Anglers’ Association (T02712-20004, rip.magdel@ axcess-net.in) operate a strict catch-record-release’ system to conserve the golden mahseer. Rafting, for fishing or nature watching, for two people on rubber rafts, Rs 650 per day, Rs 300 transport to/from raft.
Bhalukpong, 20 km west of Nameri, just beyond the Arunachal Pradesh border, en route to Tawang, has a hot spring an orchid garden and good fishing. You can camp (own tent) on the picturesque bank ofthe river Jia Bhoreli.
Getting there: taxi to/from Tezpur, 1 hr, Rs 200-250. Bus:frorn Balipura, change for Bhalukpong.
Sleeping and eating
C-D Eco Camp, 124246. Swiss cottage tents with thatched cover, some with bath (Rs 650-800), 6-bed dorm (Rs 105), wash block, meals. Contact Wild Gross Tours, 10361 -546827. F ForestLodge, contact Range Officer. Eco Eats has some tribal dishes.
