Arunachal Pradesh

Area:84,000 sq km; Languages: Monpa, Miji Aka

This is Northeast India’s largest and remotest state with a population of just over one million. The Tawang Monastery, birthplace of the sixth Dalai Lama and home to countless Buddhist treasures, is a major attraction, along with the state’s rich tribal heritage and its wonderful variety of orchids.

The land

On the Northeast frontier of india, Arunachal Pradesh is India’s least densely popu¬lated state with just 1 3 people per sq km. It stretches from the foothills of the eastern Himalaya to their permanently snow-capped peaks to the north. The Brahmaputra, known here as the Siang River, enters the state from China and flows through a deeply cut valley. Stretching from the Himalaya to the steamy plains of the Brahmaputra valley, Arunachal Pradesh has an extraordinary range of forests from the Alpine to the subtropical - from rhododendrons to orchids, reeds and bamboo. It is an orchid lover’s paradise with over 550 species identified. The wildlife includes elephants, clouded leopard, snow leopard, tiger, sloth bear, Himalayan black bear, red panda and musk deer. The Namdapha National Park is near Miao.

History

The entire region had remained isolated since 1873 when the British stopped free movement. After 1947 Arunachal became part of the North East Frontier Agency (NEFA). Its strategic significance was demonstrated by the Chinese invasion in 1962, and the Indian government subsequently broke up the Agency giving state hood to all the territories surrounding Assam. Arunachal became the 24th state in 1987, though China continues to argue that until the international border between it and India are agreed some of the territory remains disputed. At the same time the state is disputing its southern border with Assam, and in April 2001 the state government lodged a petition with India’s Supreme Court against the government of Assam for ‘large scale encroachment’ on its territory. Having long borders with China and Myanmar, it is a truly Frontier state. The state was opened to tourists in 1995 with the first foreigners being given permission to trek only as recently as 1998. Culture

The Arunachali people are the state’s greatest attraction. In the capital Itanagar you may even see Nishi warriors wearing hornbill feathers in their caps, carrying bear-skin bags and their knives in monkey-skin scabbards. A great diversity of the tribal people speak over 60 different dialects. Most have an oral tradition of recording their historic and cultural past by memorizing verses handed down through generations. Some Buddhist tribes have, however, main-tamed written records, largely recording their religious history. Some tribes worship Donyi and Polo, the Sun and Moon gods.

Entering Arunachal: Permits may be given by the Resident Cammissianer, govt of Arunachal Pradesh, Nyaya Marg, Delhi, T3073956 or Liaison Officer, Roxi Cinema, JL Nehru Raad, Kolkata, or Arunachal State Government (ask Wild Grass, Guwahati). Foreigners must bank a group tour through an approved Indian group tour through an approved Indian travel agent. Independent travel is not encouraged. Itanagar, Zira, Alang, Pasighat, Miaa, Namdapha, Tipi and Bhalukpang are open to tourists. The daily tariff requirement is US$150 (US$50 ta the state government and US$ 100 to caver the casts of the travel agent). See page 659.

Itanagar-Naharlagun (Phone code: 0360; Population. 17,300; Altitude: 750 m) Itanagar, the new capital and Naharlagun, the old town 1 0 km away, together provide the capital’s administrative offices. Itanagar, sited between two hills, has the Governor’s Residence on one and a new Buddhist temple on the other, with shops, bazar, traditional huts and more recent earthquake-proof wooden-framed buildings in between. The capital has been identified as Mayapur, the 11th-century capital of the Jitari Dynasty.

Getting there

Ins & outs: Visitors arriving at Lilabari or North Lakhimpur in Assam take 2 hrs by bus (or a little less by taxi) to ltanagar, calling at Naharalagun Bus Station before climbing up along a scenic road to the new capital. There are regular buses from Guwahati and Shillong. Getting around Frequent buses run between Itanagar and Naharalagun from 0600-2000. Cycle-rickshaws are only available in Naharlagun. Climate: Rainfall: 2,660 mm. Best season: Oct-Mar.

Sights

The yellow-roofed Buddhist Temple stands in well-kept gardens on a hilltop with goodviews. The Gyaker Sinyi (Ganga Sekhi Lake), 6 km, is reached by a rough road through forests of bamboo and tree ferns. On reaching the foot of the hill, walk across a bamboo bridge, up steps cut on the hillside to reach a ridge overlooking the forest lake. The brick fort (14th- 15th century) is believed to have been built by King Ramachandra. In Naharlagun, the Polo Park is on top of a ridge with interesting botanical specimens including the cane thicket, which looks like palm, as well as a small zoo.

Museum: Jawaharlal Nehru Museum Good coverage of tribal people - collection of art wood carvings, musical instruments and religious objects. The first floor has archae¬ological finds from Malinthan, Itafort, Noksaparbat and others. Daily, except Mon. There are district museums in Along, Bomdila, Pasighat, Tezu and Ziro holding collections of art and crafts. 1000-1700. Photography is prohibited.

Essentials

Sleeping & eating: In Itanagar B Donyi-PoloAshok, Sector C, T21 2626, F212611. 20 rooms, 2 a/c suites, restaurant. D Arun Subansiri, T21 2806. 30 rooms, restaurant. E Bomdila, T21 2664. In Naharlagun E Arunachal, T244439. 15 a/c rooms (some deluxe), E Hornbill, T244419. 14 rooms, some deluxe. F Lakshmi, 1 9 rooms (1st Flr better). F Youth Hostel, 60 beds.

Shopping: The cotton textiles are colourful and are beautifully patterned. You can also get wooden masks and figures, cane belts and caps. Handicrafts Centres have shawls, thangkas, handloom, wood carvings, cane and bamboo work and carpets; you can watch tribal craftsmen trimming, cutting and weaving cane. Tour operators Arunachal Travels, Itanagar, agents for Indian Airlines. Himalayan Holiday, Naharlagun, T246232, F243051.

Transport

Local Taxi: Rs 350 plus fuel per day. Naharlagun/Itanagar, Rs 150 plus fuel; Rs 20 (shared taxi).

Long distance Air: Nearest airport is Lilabari in Assam, 57 km from Naharlagun, 67km from Itanagar, which has twice weekly flights from Guwahati. Transfer by bus. Indian Airlines; T21 2760. From Kolkata access is best through Dibrugarh (1½ hrs) by Indian Airlines, Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun. Road Bus: APST from Naharlagun Bus Station. Guwahati, 381 km, 8 hrs, Rs 100-1 35; Shillong, 481 km, Rs 150. Ziro, 6 hrs, North Lakhimpur; Bomdila, Mon, Thu, 12 hrs. Blue Hills overnight coach to Guwahati, 11½ hrs. Enquiries: T244221. Train The nearest convenient railhead is North Lakhimpur in Assam, 50 km from Naharlagun and 60 km from ltanagar; Harmoti station is 23 km from Naharlagun. RIy Out Agency at Naharlagun bus station, T244209. Nearest railheads for the bigger towns: Along: Silapathar; Tezu: Tinsukia; Namdapha: Margherita.

Directory

Tourist office India, Sector 'C', Naharlagun, T244328. Arunachal Pradesh, Naharlagun. Useful services There are banks and post offices at Itanagar and Naharlagun. Hospitals: Itanagar, Naharlagun.