Assam

Area. 78,438 sq km: Population. 26.6 mn (scheduled caste: 7%, scheduled tribes: 13%); Language: Assamese

The lush valley of the Brahmaputra, one of the world’s great rivers, provides the setting for Assam’s culturally rich and diverse communities. Although it is tea which has given the state a world name, the fertile river valley has been the home to generations of rice farmers, and tribal populations continue to have a significant presence in parts of the state. The land: Assam stretches nearly 800 km from east to west, the length of the narrow floor of the Brahmaputra Valley. The Himalaya to the north and the Shillong Plateau to the south can be clearly seen. The state is dominated by the Brahmaputra, one of the great rivers of the world, which has a fertile alluvial plain for growing rice and is also famous for tea. Earthquakes are common, that in 1950 being estimated as the fifth biggest earthquake ever recorded. Climate: Avoid the monsoon! Assam is in one of the wettest monsoon belts in the world. Even the central Brahmaputra valley, protected by the rain shadow of the Shillong Plateau, has over 1,600 mm of annual rainfall. The rest of the Assam Valley has up to 3,200 mm a year, mostly concentrated between May and September. Although summer temperatures are high, from December to March it can be cold, especially at night.

History The Ahoms, a Shan ruling tribe, arrived in the area in the early 13th century, deposed the ruler and established the kingdom of Assam’ with its capital in Sibsagar. They later intermixed with Aryan stock and also with existing indigenous peoples (Morans, Chutiyas) and most converted to Hinduism. The Mughals made several attempts to invade without success, but the Burmese finally invaded Assam at the end of the 18th century and held it almost continuously until it was ceded to the East India Company in 1826. The British administered it in name until 1947 though many areas were beyond their effective control. People: The ethnic origin of the Assamese varies from Mongoloid tribes to those of directly Indian stock, but the predominant language is Assamese, similar to Bengali. There has been a steady flow of Muslim settlers from Bengal since the late 19th century. Nearly 90% of the people continue to live in rural areas.

Modern Assam The Assam Valley is in a strategically sensitive corridor for India, lying close to the Chinese frontier. Its sensitivity has been increased by the tension between local Assamese and immigrant groups. The then Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi achieved an Accord in 1985 with the AASU (All Assam Students Union).

The Assam Gana Parishad (AGP), the opposition party, emerged as a result of the struggles. The Congress Government negotiated accords with various tribal groups for greater auton omy at the district level to counter the rise of secessionist movements but the Bodo Liberation Front continues to operate from bases along the Bhutan-Assam border. After five years in power at the State Assembly the AGP under the Chief Minister Prafulla Mohanta lost power in the May 2001 Assembly elections to the Congress. His attempts to form an alliance with various minor political parties in the state, including the BJP, failed to deliver popular support in a state where minorities hold the key to about 40 Assembly seats.

The multi-ethnic nature of the state has always made alliances, whether within or between parties, essential to successful government. The failure of the AGP to hold its alliance together and to control the violence which has become endemic through Assam contributed to its downfall. Assam is still a dangerous region to be active in politics. In the last assembley Assembly elections as many as seven widows of assassinated politicians were contesting the polls.

Wildlife The state government has designated several wildlife sanctuaries as national parks which attract higher entry fees from foreigners (Rs. 175), only a part of which goes towards wildlife and habitat preservation.

Tours and Excursions

Warning: this section requires updating with current information

Assam Tourism Tourist Lodge, Station Rd, T547l02 conducts ciry tours and excursions. Wild Grass tours (see below) may be more reliable.

City Tours: Basistha Ashram, Zoo, Museum, Kamakhya Temple, Government Sales Emporium. 0900-1500. Rs 75. Tue, Sun (minimum 10). River Cruises, from near Janardhan Temple, winter 1500, 1600; summer 1600, 1700, one hour, Rs 40.

Kaziranga: Nov-Apr, departs 0900, arrives 1600, return 1600 on following day, Rs 530, foreigners Rs 1120 (inclusive) allows only from 1500 to 1000 (on next day) in the park. Separate morning buses, departs 0700, 5½ hrs.

Shillong: departs 0700, Rs 175 (tiring, since the windy hill roads take 3½ hrs each way).

Bhalukpong and Orchid Centre, Tipi (Permit needed), 2-day, Sun, Rs 520.

Hajo A friendly and peaceful town, 34 km across the river, which produces bell-metal work, is sacred to three religions. The Hayagriba Madhab Hindu temple is said to contain a Buddhist relic; some believe this is where the Buddha attained Nirvana. Its hilltop location is more spectacular than the temple itself. The ‘main’ street behind the tank stocked with fish leads to an old Ganesh temple after 2 km; a friendly priest might allow you in. Hajo is also sacred to Muslims since the Poa Mecca mosque built by Pir Ghiasuddin Aulia is supposed to have ‘quarter’ (poa) of the sanctity of Mecca. II

Getting there buses from Adabari Bus Stand, Rs 12, 1 hr. The last return bus departs Hajo around 1600 but may be very crowded, forcing you to travel on the roof.

Sualkuchi The small village on the north bank of the Brahmaputra is famous for silk production from non mulberry leaf-fed worms, hence its unique natural colour. Every household is involved with weaving of muga, citili or pat silk; prices are 30% cheaper than in Guwahati. There are also brass-workers here.

Getting there ferry servicefrom Guwahati; also buses to/from Hajo, 20 milis.

Pabitora A small wildlife sanctuary a two-hour drive from Guwahati (60 km), on the border of Nagaon and Kamrup districts, has rhinos.

Madan Kamdev, 45 km north ofGuwahati, has been called Assam’s Khajuraho (Kama is the Hindu God ofLove). The temples which may date from the llth-l2th century, possibly reconstructed in the 18th, are believed to be associated with tantric practices. The principle shrine to Uma-Mahesvara or Siva-Parvati is still in use. The site museum has a collection of local finds. A Tourist Lodge is scheduled to open soon.

Getting there: Buses from Guwahati go to Baihata on NH3J (5 kmfrorn the site); rickshaws run to the temples.

Transport

Warning: this section requires updating with current information

1,151 km from Kolkata, well connected by road to all major centres of the NE region; at the junction of NH 31, 37 & 40

Local

Auto-rickshaw: Paltan Bazar to Fancy Bazar Rs 20, Fancy Bazar to Navagraha Temple Rs 25.

Bus (also see below): Red minibus ‘canters’ or ‘Omni taxis’ cover main roads, Rs 35. These are prone to accidents.
Taxi sightseeing Rs 100 per hr excluding petrol (Guwahati Taxis, Paltan Bazar, near Police Station)
Cars/jeeps Rs 700 per day plus overnight Rs 150 (Green Valley, Silpukhuri, T545289; Traveland, 1st floor, Brahmaputra Ashok, MG Rd, T541064, F520762) Reliable and efficient.
Ferry to North Guwahati from MG Rd Ferry Ghat. Others to Peacock Island: Rs 6 each way. 0700-1 700.

Long distance

Air

Information T84235.
Transport to town Indian Airlines and Rhino Travels coaches connect with Kolkata flights, Rs 40, 1 hr. Taxi, Rs 300, share taxi, Rs 100, 45 mins. Auto-rickshaw, Rs 150.
Indian Airlines, Ganeshguri, near Dispur, T564420, airport, T84375; 0900-1600. Kolkata, 2 daily; some weekly to Agartala, Delhi, lmphal, Lilabari.
Jet Airways, Silpukuhri, GNB Rd, T522402: to Bagdogra, Kolkata, Delhi, Imphal; Helicopter: Meghalaya Transport Corpration Shillong, Mon-Sat (am and pm), Rs 1000, and on to Tura; tickets at airport.

Airlines Air lndia, GS Rd, T56l881. BA, Pelican Travels, Hotel Brohmaputro Ashok, T545 1 49, Jet, T520202.

Road

Bus Between midnight & 0500 buses are not allowed to enter the city, but taxis are. Private coaches (and taxis) operate from Paltan Bazar, with waiting rooms, left-luggage, snack bars.

Operators Assam Valley, T546133, Blue Hills, T547911, Green Vallley, T544636, and others have buses to all the Hill States. Assam STC Stand, Paltan Bazar, T547941. Left-luggage, Rs 3 per day. Reservations 0630-1230, 1330-1700. Meghalaya STC, T547668. Buses to: Aizawl (11 hrs); Imphal (579 km); Itanagar (11 hrs); Jorhat via Kohora (for Kaziranga), Rs 86 (6 hrs); Kaziranga and Upper Assam: bus for Tinsukia and Digboi (0700 a/c; 0730), halt at Wild Grass Resorts after 4 hrs. Kohima 2000, 2015, 2030 (13 hrs); Shillong (103 km) hourly, 0600-1700, Rs 40 (3½ hrs); Silchar 1 730; Siliguri; Tezpur every 30 mins (3½ hrs). City Bus Stand, Station Rd (north end): to Hajo, Rs 6 (1¼ hr). Adabari Bus Stand, AT Rd (4 km west of centre) reached by ‘canters’ from MG Rd, has buses to Hajo (Rs 7), Orang and Nalbari etc. Taxi: from Paltan Bazar: Shillong, Rs 625 (5 sharing, Rs 1 25 each, they fill up quickly when trains arrive).

Train

Guwahati station has snack bars, chemists, tourist information, left-luggage (trunks and suitcases only), on showing ticket. Enquiries: T540330. Reservations: 100 m north of the station on Station Rd, T541 799, 0800-1 330,1 400-2000; Foreign Tourists, Counter 3, where great patience is needed! The new line from Guwahati, along the south bank of the Brahmaputra to Jogighopa, cuts delays and speed up journey times. To Kolkata (H): Kanchanjangha Exp, 5658 (AC/Il), 2200, 22½ hrs (via New Jalpaiguri, 1 0 hrs); Kamrup Exp, 5960 (AC/Il), 0700, 23¾ hrs; Saraighat Exp, 3026, Mon,Thu, En, 1000, 18 hrs (via New Jalpaiguri, 8 hrs). To Delhi (ND): Rajdhani Exp, 2423, via Patna and Kanpur, Man, Thu, En, 0600, 28 hrs; Rajdhani Exp, 2435, via Lucknow, Wed, Sun, 32/4 hrs. Northeast Exp, 5621, 0830, 35¾ hrs. To Dibrugarh Via Dimapur: Brahmaputra Mail, 4056, 1430, 16 hrs; Kamrup Exp, 5959, 1 630, 1 4½ hrs.

The Assam Chronicle

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